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mattybock
what is the primary difference between guitar riffs and shuffles in real world use. i am using a hohner half size (parlor size) acoustic guitar to learn some early rock numbers (chuck berry <3 and ricky nelson) and to make a few up myself. so far i recognize i need 2 guitar sections; the rhythms and the riffs/ shuffles. can i interchange the 2 terms in real world usage?
thank you.
Answer
A riff is the same as a lick, a short melodic phrase or lead line. Usually a catchy series of notes that make people want to play "air" guitar.
Shuffle is a type of rhythm, or a way to play a rhythm. Similar to "swing" in jazz.
Each quarter note ( 1 beat ) usually breaks down into 2 eighth notes, counted : 1+ 2+ 3+ 4+
In a shuffle, each beat is treated as a triplet, counted 1+a 2+a 3+a 4+a. It will often be written as a straight 4/4, but the eighth notes will be played as a triplet with the first note lasting for 2 counts of the triplet, and the second on the last 1 count.
So the first will last for 1+, and the second will be on "a". (pronounced, "uh").Simply put, the first eighth will be long, and the second will be short.
When the actual rhythm is written precisely, it is written as being in 12/8 time. Most don't bother, and just write in 4/4 and tell you to play as a shuffle.
The words "shuffle" and "riff" are not related. They deal with completely different aspects of music. You cannot use them interchangeably and still make any sense at all.
When they group the two ideas in the book, it is because the style of music may be played as a shuffle, and certain riffs may be expected to work in that idiom.
A riff is the same as a lick, a short melodic phrase or lead line. Usually a catchy series of notes that make people want to play "air" guitar.
Shuffle is a type of rhythm, or a way to play a rhythm. Similar to "swing" in jazz.
Each quarter note ( 1 beat ) usually breaks down into 2 eighth notes, counted : 1+ 2+ 3+ 4+
In a shuffle, each beat is treated as a triplet, counted 1+a 2+a 3+a 4+a. It will often be written as a straight 4/4, but the eighth notes will be played as a triplet with the first note lasting for 2 counts of the triplet, and the second on the last 1 count.
So the first will last for 1+, and the second will be on "a". (pronounced, "uh").Simply put, the first eighth will be long, and the second will be short.
When the actual rhythm is written precisely, it is written as being in 12/8 time. Most don't bother, and just write in 4/4 and tell you to play as a shuffle.
The words "shuffle" and "riff" are not related. They deal with completely different aspects of music. You cannot use them interchangeably and still make any sense at all.
When they group the two ideas in the book, it is because the style of music may be played as a shuffle, and certain riffs may be expected to work in that idiom.
what is the best acoustic guitar for begginers?
lil twiggy
im really lost hahaha i would love to learn how to play the acoustic guitar however i have no idea what to buy for my first one?
any ideas? (uk based )
Answer
Well, Twig, I'm going to repeat a few things that others have already said and expand and and simplify just a little.
You'll probably want a steel-string acoustic (western acoustic) over a nylon string (classical acoustic) guitar, as this is likely the type of sound you are looking for. However, the classical guitar (often called Spanish guitar) makes that very mellow, soft acoustic tone. You probably have heard examples of both. Myself, I wanted my acoustic to be classical, since that WAS the sound I wanted. In my opinion, it is moodier and more expressive, but that is my own thought and what I wanted in an acoustic guitar. Yes, steel strings will hurt the heck out of your fingers initially (playing until you fingers bleed is not just an expression!) The good side is that you'll develop tough fingertip calluses that will eliminate the pain and soreness that you'll certainly feel. Don't sweat it... every string player goes through it.
UK, eh? Don't spend more than 300 pounds, or less than 100. THAT, my little English friend, is the financial sweet-spot for a starter guitar. Now this is a general rule that gets around 'brand identity' because for a starter, that isn't very important. A novice violinist doesn't profit from playing a Stradivarius. But go TOO cheap, and you have a piece of crap that will likely discourage you and begin to fail in places where things wear on each other.
Many fine guitar makers have mass-produced lines of models that sell for hundreds or thousands less than their top-of-the-line models. These are what you are looking for. Well-cared for, they will serve you well for many, may years. Baby them, and they will last forever.
*Personal tip* If you can play any old thing at all, try out a Western acoustic vs a classical acoustic. I decided THAT sound was what I wanted for acoustic playing. You might too. It is the difference between 'twang' and 'hum.'
EDIT: Oooo. SK up there (who usually has very well-informed answers) mentions BRINGING A FRIEND who can play so you can HEAR the guitars actually being played. If you can't play a lick yet, this is a GREAT idea.
Well, Twig, I'm going to repeat a few things that others have already said and expand and and simplify just a little.
You'll probably want a steel-string acoustic (western acoustic) over a nylon string (classical acoustic) guitar, as this is likely the type of sound you are looking for. However, the classical guitar (often called Spanish guitar) makes that very mellow, soft acoustic tone. You probably have heard examples of both. Myself, I wanted my acoustic to be classical, since that WAS the sound I wanted. In my opinion, it is moodier and more expressive, but that is my own thought and what I wanted in an acoustic guitar. Yes, steel strings will hurt the heck out of your fingers initially (playing until you fingers bleed is not just an expression!) The good side is that you'll develop tough fingertip calluses that will eliminate the pain and soreness that you'll certainly feel. Don't sweat it... every string player goes through it.
UK, eh? Don't spend more than 300 pounds, or less than 100. THAT, my little English friend, is the financial sweet-spot for a starter guitar. Now this is a general rule that gets around 'brand identity' because for a starter, that isn't very important. A novice violinist doesn't profit from playing a Stradivarius. But go TOO cheap, and you have a piece of crap that will likely discourage you and begin to fail in places where things wear on each other.
Many fine guitar makers have mass-produced lines of models that sell for hundreds or thousands less than their top-of-the-line models. These are what you are looking for. Well-cared for, they will serve you well for many, may years. Baby them, and they will last forever.
*Personal tip* If you can play any old thing at all, try out a Western acoustic vs a classical acoustic. I decided THAT sound was what I wanted for acoustic playing. You might too. It is the difference between 'twang' and 'hum.'
EDIT: Oooo. SK up there (who usually has very well-informed answers) mentions BRINGING A FRIEND who can play so you can HEAR the guitars actually being played. If you can't play a lick yet, this is a GREAT idea.
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